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When you do come here, a village-like appeal
of Khajuraho’s 5000 strong population
will welcome you with its simple bylanes, exotic
Swiss and Japanese restaurants. Guides will
tell you how Hemvati, the lovely daughter of
a Brahmin priest was seduced by the Moon God
and later gave birth to Chandravarman, the founder
of the Chandela dynasty. He built these temples
after a dream visitation by his mother who asked
him to reveal the shallow nature of human passion
to the world. While much science and artistry
has gone into making these temples, just walking
around the enclosures makes one realize that
they really do look like a dream. Some in a
state of disrepair or being worked on, these
temples bowl one over with an artistic revolution
that happened in our evolved past. The people
in this neat little hamlet are terrifically
well meaning and help make for a wonderful stay.
The majority of the temples
are in the eastern (Jain) and western group
(Hindu), the latter of which is a fenced enclosure
and maintained very well, with a consistent
pattern of an Ardhamandapa (an entrance
porch), which leads to the Mandapa (Hall). This
in turn leads to the Mahamandapa (the
main pillared hall) and finally one arrives
into the inner chamber, the Garbhagriha.
This seems plain when compared to the profusion
of sculptures on the outer walls. All movement
from the outer wells leading into the sanctum
sanctorum symbolizes man’s journey from
earthly preoccupations to spiritual awakening.
The Southern group has temples
made when the artists were past their peak but
still have a graceful presence. Having been
left alone in their natural environs, this set
of temples are a wonderful excursion cycling
through the gullies (lanes). There
is much speculation over whether these temples
were a reflection of society’s liberal
nature or an instruction manual for the young,
or a visual depiction of the Kamasutra or symbolic
of the Shiva-Parvati relations. Whatever the
truth, each little work of art on these walls
is not an invitation to be titillated, but rather
to be charmed by the workmanship.
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